Wallace Chan: A Luminous Legacy
By Meredith Damouni
The Wheel of Life: A Retrospective Exhibition at Christie’s London and a discussion on the philosophy of life, as seen by Wallace Chan.
Wallace Chan
In the world of high jewellery, few names shine as brightly as Wallace Chan's. Renowned for his visionary artistry, innovative techniques, and unparalleled craftsmanship, Chan has been a trailblazer in the realm of not only jewellery design but all forms of creative expression for decades. The world has recently had the opportunity to celebrate his remarkable journey through an exquisite retrospective exhibition at Christie's, showcasing his groundbreaking creations that have left an indelible mark on the world of luxury.
There’s nothing like spending time with this incredible artist and creator. His inner peace and guiding life principles that are expressed through his thoughts and processes resound in his words, and ideas and give harmony to his unfathomable achievements.
Walking through the exhibit at Christie’s London of over 150 pieces of his art, each one more mesmerising than the previous, it’s incredible to understand how one person has created so many innovations and intricate creations. As Chan’s vision is boundless, his ideas are seemingly impossible to create and his process of ‘slow motion multi-tasking’ means that he usually has to solve a problem in terms of the creative process to be able to realise his ideas. Processes sometimes take more than a decade of research and development to endure to be able to technically achieve the results he desired in his work.
“I came from nothing, and even today, I feel that I have nothing. And I know nothing. Well, there were many moments in my life when I had to find some strength within myself to continue to believe in tomorrow. For example. I was once cheated out of some work, someone just took all my work without paying. I’ve had a stroke once, and there was a time when I could not work. And at this time, many people left me. I was living on a rooftop once, almost homeless. So all these experiences that I’ve had, I still remember, I am humble, but also those experiences have taught me how to combat for myself, how to find strength within myself and how to carry on and be persistent.”
Chan is a Hong Kong-based artist, who’s known for pushing the boundaries of what is possible in jewellery design. His journey began in the early 1970s when he embarked on a quest to master the art of gem carving. He was determined to elevate the craft to new heights and challenge conventional jewellery norms. His innovative approach led to the development of groundbreaking techniques, such as the "Wallace Cut," which involves carving intricate designs into gemstones to reveal hidden beauty and create mesmerising optical effects.
“To carve is not only to carve with your hands but also not only to carve on the materials but also carve on your heart and with your heart. So you're covering your own heart. And you have to give your material or have your love is like as if you're listening that you're a poet, and you're writing a poem. If you write it with love, it will come out with love. So that's just as simple as that.”
Simple perhaps to him, but being surrounded by his creations for me amplified what one can achieve when a deep connection to one’s purpose, one’s self and the universe is developed and worked on every minute of the day as a way of living and existing.
“The more you know, the more you can apply to your subject matter and your materials. And so it's just a matter of identity. Because when I was young, I didn't get to go to school. I wanted to be like others and have a certificate that says I graduated from primary school, high school or university. I saw when people were wearing their graduation hats, and I also wished I could have done moment. But that was many years ago and when I started working as a carver, I thought about my identity too. At one point people have called me a designer, a carver, an artist, a laboratory gem cutter, a sculptor and a painter… I have all sorts of labels. But this is when I realised, that the label you give yourself is the box that you've put yourself in. You don't need to be constrained and you don't need to be restricted. If you want to create and if you want to do right by your materials, you have to just learn what is needed and apply your skills and your knowledge to make it happen. So to me, my jewellery is composed of paintings, drawings, gem cutting, mythology… all sorts of different art forms, carvings and colours and so, I need to know all these things, but not because I want to be called a ‘painter’ or that I want to be called any other label, but just because these skills are helping me create what I want to create.”
Nature is a recurring theme in Wallace Chan's work. He draws inspiration from the natural world, capturing the ephemeral beauty of flowers, the dynamic energy of animals, and the serenity of landscapes in his jewellery. His pieces often feature intricate, lifelike details that reflect his deep reverence for the environment. Chan's connection to nature is not only aesthetic but also philosophical. He sees nature as the ultimate artist, and his jewellery as a humble attempt to capture its essence. Through his work, he encourages viewers to rekindle their connection to the natural world and appreciate its boundless beauty, this philosophy and deep appreciation is not limited to his connection with his audience, it’s ever-present in his purpose and identity.
But, in his career, spanning over 50 years, some highlights in innovation in craft and thinking are exceptional and propel Chan into a different stratosphere among other jewellery designers.
The Wallace Cut: At the heart of the exhibition is the "Wallace Cut" – a testament to Chan's innovation and technical prowess. We witnessed the mesmerising optical effects created by this revolutionary gem-cutting technique, which turns gemstones into miniature works of art.
Gemstone Sculptures: Chan's deep appreciation for natural beauty is evident in his gemstone sculptures. These one-of-a-kind creations transform raw, uncut gemstones into lifelike representations of flora, fauna and celestial bodies.
High Jewellery Masterpieces: The exhibition also featured a dazzling array of high jewellery pieces that exemplify Chan's ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation. His jewellery pieces often tell intricate stories, drawing inspiration from his diverse cultural experiences and travels.
The Ethereal Collection: Chan's "Ethereal" collection is a highlight of the exhibition, featuring jewellery pieces that seem to defy gravity. These creations are crafted with astonishing lightness and elegance, showcasing Chan's mastery over materials and form.
Innovation and Sustainability: Beyond the beauty of his creations, Wallace Chan's work also underscores the importance of sustainability. He has pioneered the use of unconventional materials and ethical sourcing practices, setting a new standard for responsible luxury.
One of the cornerstones of Wallace Chan's philosophy is material alchemy. He pushes the boundaries of traditional jewellery creation by working with unconventional materials, such as jade, titanium, porcelain, and even meteorites. Chan's willingness to experiment and innovate with these materials demonstrates his belief in the transformative power of art. He fuses tradition with innovation, turning everyday materials into extraordinary works of wearable art.
Chan's deep respect for materials goes beyond their physical properties. He sees each material as having its history, energy, and resonance. In his hands, these materials are not just shaped into beautiful jewellery; they become vessels for storytelling and cultural exploration.
“Because if you think of yourself as a certain identity if you think you're a ‘jewellery designer’, then you're just only thinking that you design jewellery and this is very restrictive. I don't want to be constrained like that. People told me, ‘Your jewellery is so successful you should not work on sculptures’ and people also told me, when I was younger, ‘You're such a good carver of crystals, why are you working on jewellery now?’ People have always seemed to want me to stay a certain way, they only see what is happening now. But, to me, when I’m creating it doesn't matter what I create as long as it's something that my heart desires.”
Another pillar of Chan's philosophy is his unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. He often spends months or even years on a single piece, paying meticulous attention to every detail. This dedication to perfection is not driven by a desire for acclaim but by his belief that the process of creation is a spiritual journey. In a world where mass production and instant gratification are prevalent, Chan's approach is a testament to the enduring value of craftsmanship. He emphasises the importance of patience, discipline, and the pursuit of excellence in artistry. Chan's jewellery is not just about aesthetics; it also carries a spiritual dimension. He believes that art has the power to transcend the material and touch the soul. His creations are infused with symbolism and metaphysical elements, inviting wearers to embark on a spiritual journey of self-discovery. For Chan, jewellery is a bridge between the physical and the spiritual, a vessel for emotions, memories, and aspirations. His pieces often incorporate Eastern philosophies and symbolism, adding layers of depth and meaning to his already intricate work.
“The universe uses me as a medium, the universe gives me messages. That is one thing. And the other is that I have ideas in all forms, like a butterfly or there is a dragonfly.. this is the idea. But I need to think about the materials, how they harmonise how to harmonise them, how they are put together, and how to cut them. I have to know about the texture and the characteristics of the materials. And he also needs to think about metal, like how to manoeuvre metal and even other materials, everything has to come together. It's the cooking of many different ideas for many different aspects of each work. So it's a process of a lot of new ideas, chopping away and transformation, combining them. It’s very complicated.”
He hasn't thought about how he wants the future to remember him.
“I cannot see the future, all I can do is focus on the present and work in the moment to perfect the moment I have, with all I can. I think history will tell my story.”
Wallace Chan's retrospective exhibition at Christie's was a celebration of a true visionary in the world of creativity. It offered a rare opportunity to immerse oneself in the brilliance and innovation of a master craftsman who has redefined the boundaries of jewellery design and sculpting. Visitors to this exhibition not only witnessed the evolution of an artist but also gained insight into the future of luxury, where innovation and sustainability go hand in hand. As we were able to explore the intricate beauty of Chan's creations, we were reminded that in the world of luxury, true artistry knows no bounds.